Joanna Biggar's Blog

Despite the dreaded cheap, starchy meals in the student dining rooms, les demoiselles quickly branched out to appreciate the wonders of French food, even that which was inexpensive and simple. Salads, cheeses, quiches ,all with a nice wine, and even eggs.  

 Of course, as Julia Child would teach them, when they began to study her masterpiece, even when it came to something as basic as scrambled eggs, there was the wrong way — and the French way!

                                                                        OEUFS    BROUILLES    (SCRAMBLED EGGS)

     Scrambled eggs in French are creamy soft curds that just hold their shape from fork to mouth. Their preparation is entirely a matter of stirring the eggs over gentle heat until they slowly thicken as a mass into a custard. No liquid or liquid-producing ingredients such as tomatoes should be beaten into them before cooking, as this is liable to turn them watery.

      For 4 or 5 servings.

A fork or a wire whip                 Beat the eggs in the bowl with the seasonings for 20 to 30 seconds to blend yolks and whites.

8 eggs, or 7 eggs and 2 yolks

A mixing bowl

1/4 tsp salt

Pinch of pepper

2 Tb softened butter                         Smear the bottom and sides of the pan with the butter. Pour in the  

A heavy-bottomed,                          eggs and set over moderately low heat. Stir slowly and continually

enameled, pyrex, earthen-              reaching all over the  bottom of the pan. Nothing will seem to

 ware,  or stainless steel                   happen for 2 to 3 minutes as the eggs gradually heat. Suddenly

saucepan or skillet 7 to                   they will begin to thicken into a custard. Stir rapidly, moving pan

8 inches in diameter.                        on and off heat, until the eggs have almost thickened to the con-

Depth of eggs in pan should          sistency you wish. Then remove from  heat, as they will continue

be 2/3 to 1 inch. A                                   to thicken slightly.

rubber spatula, wooden                                               

spoon,  or wire whip.

1 1/2 to 2 Tb softened butter              Just as soon as they are of the right consistency, stir in the enrichment butter or

or whipping cream                                cream, which will stop the cooking. Season to taste, (herbs, cheese, truffles and other

A warm buttered platter                    garnishings may be added), turn out onto the platter, decorate with parsely, and serve.

Parsley sprigs                                          (The eggs may be kept for a while in their saucepan over tepid water, but the sooner they

                                                                            are served, the better).

Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. I, pg. 125.